Saturday, September 29, 2007

A Friend’s Passing

I had a column in the making, but it will have to wait for another time. I just got word that a friend of mine, Alexie Nicholai Jr., passed away this morning, September 28, 2007. He was around my age.
The odd thing is that I was just talking about him to someone this afternoon while waiting at the airport in Bethel to catch a flight back from a CPR training I attended.
Now, I’m not going to write about thinking of my own mortality. We all do that from time to time. Rather, I’d like to reminisce a bit about Alexie.
I first met Alexie when I was site administrator in Oscarville from 2000-2003. He was the maintenance man at school and as far as I know he still held that position. He’d work hard and make sure things were running smoothly. All the while he’d be upbeat and have the attitude that he could fix anything. Generally, he could.
People say it is best to keep boss/employee relationship as it is and not grow into friendship. That has always been one of my weak spots and it has brought so many good people in my life. Our friendship grew. He’d invite me to steams, rescued me when I did something dumb, and gave me the confidence to travel by snow machine to Bethel on the frozen river or tundra.
Since Oscarville doesn’t have an airport one has to either cross the river to Napaskiak and catch flight or use the river to get places. After winter sets in you can travel on the tundra. However, during freeze up or break-up the river is basically closed – or so I thought.
Alexie and others who grew up in the area would somehow make it to Bethel during those times. He casually explained it to me one time, “You (Gussaks) are stuck. We (natives) are never stuck.”
He also taught me that distance is seen differently between the cultures. Getting from point A to point B may be “within walking distance” or “just right over there” to him, but it could be three miles.
Alexie would use the term “a bit” frequently. “I’ll be there in a bit,” is one thing I remember. I use the word “bit” often now. It can refer to five minutes, hours, days, weeks, months, or years. No one knows and that is what makes it great. If no one can put a time limit to “bit,” then you can’t hold a person accountable for not being on time.
Even though I haven’t run into him for a few years the memories have always been there. Alexie may not have known how he touched our lives and left an impression, but I believe he does now.
One day we will all meet our demise. No one knows when that time will be. It can be five minutes, hours, days, weeks, months, or years. So to Alexie I say, “I’ll see you in a bit. You may not be within walking distance, but you are just right over there.”
Irene and I would like to extend our sincere condolences to the family to Alexie Nicholai. They will always be in our thoughts and prayers.

Friday, September 21, 2007

My Blooming Flower

“I never win anything,” I complained to the guy sitting next to me as I wrote my name on a ticket and dropped it in the container with the rest of the entries. We were at a special education inservice in Bethel and I was about to swallow that sentence.
My name was the first one drawn and I got to go pick a door prize from the many on a table. All of them were wrapped and a triangular package caught my eye. It was flimsy when I picked it up, but I have always been told, “Your first choice is usually right.”
Remembering that line I proudly walked back to my seat knowing I made the right decision. Then I tore off the wrapping and unfolded a fuzzy, green, plastic, blow-up flower with a clear back and a suction cup in the center.
I figured you blow the thing up making it look like it was in bloom, moisten the suction cup, and stick it on a window. Now, when I put stuff in or on a window it is to show the item to those outside. If I did that to my flower only those indoors would get the whole blooming affect.
I took a couple of pictures and sent them to my wife. She didn’t seem all that interested in keeping my beautiful flower. Then I emailed another teacher who had won not one, but two door prizes. Her reply basically said that, “it would bring out (or get me in touch with) my feminine side.” That was all I needed.
There had to be something more to it. I’d have to ask people and actually show it to them to find out. I could have simply wrote a short email to the special education department for an explanation of my fabulous prize, but that didn’t occur to me until now when I got to this point in my column.
The flower rested comfortably out of sight in a closed file drawer for a few days. Every time I opened the drawer I’d see it and wonder what it’s purpose was. I couldn’t very well give it away if I didn’t know. Besides, I might want to hang on to it if I found out it had a useful function.
An answer came during a meeting at school. I don’t recollect how the subject came up and now I don’t care, but I ended up showing the flower to the group. After a few laughs I got a surprise. I came away with a logical explanation. Someone told me that it might be a bath pillow. I could stick it on the edge of the tub and rest my head on it. Now the fuzzy, green, plastic, blow-up pillow had a use – and it was mine.
I’ll have to try it. A nice, long, hot bath (minus my feminine side) will probably feel good.

A Fall Theory

The Fall season is almost officially among us. Don’t exactly know what that means in these parts of the tundra. When I peer out my window all I see are clouds and rain. It has been that way for a month. Step outside and the wind is added to the equation. I haven’t quite figured out the answer to how one can call this particular type of weather Fall, but I do have a theory.
Based on the world of astronomy seasons are determined by either the equinox or the solstices. In the world of Kip it is based on observation and logical explanations.
The sun is known to rise and set daily. Maybe not in the uppermost northern hemisphere, but it does elsewhere. Here the sun just “Falls” this time of year – and falls and falls…
It is the same with the rain. It Falls – constantly.
The wind? I believe that it has fulfilled its part beautifully. Without the wind blowing summer away, we’d still be stuck in that gorgeous time of fishing the rivers and picking wild berries on the tundra. No one wants that.
With wet, slippery boardwalks and metal gratings we tend to fit right into the season. We Fall.
Let’s not forget the clouds. They are full with precipitation. This makes them very heavy. No high dry puffs of cirrus clouds here. We are blessed with obese white blobs that Fall close to earth.
It is just a weird time of year. We tend to say, “Well, summer’s over.” Or we look to the future and blurt out, “Winter is coming.”
We plainly forget that there is a Fall season. There aren’t any multi-colored leaves on almost treeless tundra to gauge the season. What we have here is a calendar that states Fall has begun because we passed the solstice. Therefore, one has to look at the obvious signs of nature as I have.
Granted, my theory may be unfounded and based on looking through drowned windows and wet eyeglass lenses, but it works for me. But don’t you worry; it won’t be something I will pass on to my students. I’m obligated to teach the approved curriculum and state education standards.
However, if the State Board of Education ever decides to go with my theory I will be more than happy not to take the credit. My career would Fall…and fall…and fall.

Friday, September 14, 2007

Here's Some Good News

Through the years I’ve been in the Kuskokwim Delta I have lived in, visited, or just seen from the airport several villages and school sites in LKSD. They are Oscarville, Napaskiak, Napakiak, Akula, Akiuk, Nunapitchuk, Atmautluak, Chefornak, Kongiganak, Kwigillingok, Newtok, Nightmute, Toksook Bay, Tununak, Tuntutuliak, Mekoryuk, Kilbuck, and Bethel Regional High School.
Others like Kwethluk, EEK, Kipnuk, Quinahagak I have only seen from the air while flying to other villages. Then there are the two that I’ve heard a lot about and have wanted to visit – Good News Bay and Platinum.
If you'd like to you can go to lksd.org and see the district map to give you an idea of how spread out the district is.
September 7, 2007 I was presented with a last minute opportunity to accompany the Atmautluak Cross Country team to Good News Bay for a meet. The planes would pick them up in thirty minutes. I didn’t think twice and was ready to go in fifteen. The planes arrived were on Bush time. They landed about forty-five minutes late. That was fine with me. I was still going.
It was a windy, turbulent take-off, but after we got a few hundred feet in the air it was a pretty smooth ride. I sat in front. It is neat up there and I can watch the radar and see where we are in relation to our destination.
About an hour later the mountains came into view. I glanced at the radar and to me it looked like we were veering off course. Being a nosey person and knowing that the pilot has the training and license I asked him why we seemed to be “off course.” I can’t remember his exact words, but it boiled down to avoiding the unpredictable winds that whip around the mountains. It worked for me.
A few minute later we landed. As we climbed out of the plane the wind and rain met us face-on. We quickly threw our luggage in a waiting SUV and were driven to the school. After we got settled and ate dinner I investigated the school, met their new staff and visited with the ones I knew who were still working there. Before long it was lights out for me.
The next morning we were greeted with wonderful breakfast and time to spare before the Cross Country meet would begin. While the teams and coaches walked the course, I decided to check out the village, beginning with the store.
I hadn’t got far from the school when a villager offered me a ride. Again, I didn’t have to think twice and hopped on his four-wheeler.
The store in Good News Bay was impressive. It had such a great variety of items. I could have easily gone broke, but I restrained myself.
After checking out the store I slowly walked back to the school snapping digital pictures along the way. It didn’t take much imagination to see how beautiful the place is when the rain and clouds are gone and the sun is shining.
The Cross Country competition began around noon. I’m glad the kids were running and not I. The course’s route took them up and down two mountains, to the airport, by the shore, and back to the starting line. I think it was around 2 miles. I got tired just watching them.
Soon afterwards it was time to get ready to catch our flight back. It was one time that I kind of wished we had gotten weathered in. There was more I wanted to see and do in Good News Bay. I didn’t have the chance to walk the whole village or the beach. Neither was I able to see Platinum due to the low clouds.
Maybe I’ll get to go back to Good News Bay at some point. Maybe I won’t. At least I have the memories and a few pictures. I can reminisce and think about it – probably more than twice.
(Tundra Teacher Tales is available in paperback or an immediate E-book download. Go to www.booklocker.com/books/973.html)

Sunday, September 9, 2007

Village Photos, etc.

Good Evening-
Today will be a very short entry as it is getting late. However, don't worry click on the link below to see a bunch of pictures from some of the twenty-one villages in the Lower Kuskokwim School District.
http://www.lksd.org/sped/photos.html
I've worked, visited, or just landed at several of them: Newtok, Mekoryuk, Tununak, Nightmute, Toksook Bay, Kasigluk-Akiuk, Kasigluk-Akula, Goodnews Bay, Nunapatchuk, Napaskiak, Oscarville, Napakiak, Chefornak, Tunt, Kong, Kwigillingok, Atmautluak, and of course ME, BRHS, and Kilbuck located in Bethel.
I can't say I have an overall favorite village or school in Alaska as a lot of factors go into making a decision like that. Each one has its good and bad points. Essentials such as water, sewer, heat, food play a part, but you also have to consider the weather. Blizzards and high winds will occur. That is a fact. Planes won't fly and you can get stuck for days in a village unable to fly out. If you can live with the isolation and be flexible on traveling, then you might have the demeanor to work in Rural Alaska.
Until next time.

Saturday, September 8, 2007

How/why I Ended up in Alaska and Helpful Educator Links

Last century - 1996 to be exact we traveled to Fairbanks, Alaska to visit my sister. I had just started teaching in Texas, but instantly was turned on to the vastness and beauty of The Last Frontier.
We had a blast for that summer week. There was the overnight fishing trip on an isolated lake accessible by float plane only. The tourist paddle boat trip. The six hour car trips to Valdez and Anchorage. I made the decision at that time to look into the teaching opportunities that were available.
I began at the Alaska's State Education Department's web site, www.eed.state.ak.us/. There is a world of information on certification, the State Education Standards, and etc.
If you care to see what is available then go to the University of Alaska Fairbanks teacher placement web site at www.alaskateacher.org. You will find the latest openings, Alaska district's web sites, a State-Wide application that can be submitted online, and various other information. They also host two summer job fairs in Alaska and a couple of them in the Lower 48.
I attended a job fair in 1997 and then in June 1998. I'm not underqualified at all. I just don't interview well. July 1998 I was offered a job in Rural Alaska.
I ended up on the flat tundra void of trees and mountains. At first I wanted to get back on the plane thinking how I really screwed up, but then (with the "encouragement" of my wife) I decided to give it a chance. I am so glad I did. For the most part it has been great.
The schools are small. The class sizes aren't much larger than a dozen. You don't have to dress up for work. And the people are so friendly. Yes, you will get a few bad apples, but the good outweighs the bad.
It isn't for everyone, but Rural Alaska could always use teachers that will stick around.
Feel free to email me if you'd like to. I love to answer questions and promote Bush Teaching.
Have a great day everyone!

Friday, September 7, 2007

Boat Trip to Bethel

It is a fact that one’s survival rate in Bush Alaska not only depends on the weather and other factors beyond your control, but also the company you choose to have an adventure with.
Last week I got the opportunity to go from Atmautluak to Bethel by boat. It turned out to be a nice trip with splendid company and an alert, safe driver. Quite opposite than if I were at the helm.
We met at the boat about 11:30AM on September 1st. I was bundled in my winter coat, as it was the coldest day so far since I arrived. Having told them I didn’t have a life vest, they were gracious enough to supply one for me.
I got into the boat, picked up the life vest, put my arms through it, breathed in and managed to clip the top strap. With my heavy coat underneath it was a bit tight, but would have to work.
From the air the river resembles a snake forever making an “S.” It looks the same from a boat. We were constantly turning left or right on the surprisingly smooth water. I was told it takes about an hour-and-a-half to get to Bethel and we enter the Kuskokwim at Napakiak.
That turned out to be about right. It took a little longer to get to the big city of Bethel, but we had four adults and three kids in the boat. We also had the pleasure of a small rain shower between Napakiak and Oscarville.
The driver slowed down a moment while we unfolded a tarp and put it over us. Then he throttled up and left us to fight the thing to keep it down and not have it blow out of the boat. But we were staying dry.
After docking at the Brown Slough we went shopping. I lugged my box full of food to the boat stopping a few times to set it down and rest my arms. A short time later the others showed up. We loaded all the groceries, piled into the boat, put on our life vests, and sat down.
The ride back was different – at least from my observation. Within thirty minutes the kids were asleep. The youngest one caught my eye. His mom laid him on his back with half his body on her soft backpack. As he was drifting off to nautical dreamland his left arm would raise up whenever we bounced over the wake of a passing boat. Then slowly fall down again. His eyes never opened. Before long it ended and his arm stayed put. He was out along with the other two kids.
Atmautluak came into view about 5:30PM. We had made it back without getting lost, breaking down, or sinking. It may have had something to do with me being the furthest from the engine.
I thanked them for letting me tag along thinking it would be the end of their kindness. I was wrong.
Not only did they refuse my offer to pay for some of the gas while we were in Bethel, they even put my box of groceries on their four-wheeler and delivered it to my house. Someday I will figure out how to repay them.

Wednesday, September 5, 2007

New School Year Obstacles

Every year I, as with many teachers, look back at the end of the first couple weeks of school and wonder how I survived. Not that there are 30 kids to a classroom in rural Alaska like some urban schools, but there are unique obstacles to overcome in isolated villages.
Therefore, I made a short list addressing a few problems and offering my expert advice based on personal experience. It is far from complete, but here it is in its
non-entirety.
First, don’t sweat. I mean it. A daily bath isn’t always guaranteed. Especially, if a water pipe broke the day before school starts and you have to haul water from the river each day for three days. That was a bummer. I sweated carrying five-gallon buckets of water. A shower was in order, but couldn’t do it without running water.
Instead, I relied on my vast bush experiences to get me through this dreadful time. My solution was to pour the river water in a wash pail (large plastic salad/serving bowl in my case), set it in the bath tub, get in the tub and give myself a steam bath wash without the steam. The Westerner term would be “sponge bath.” It’s cold and you may feel like a penguin after a refreshing swim, but at least you won’t stink up your classroom.
However, there is the issue of clean clothes. I got lucky. Only had to hand wash under clothes one time. I was down to my last shirt and jeans when the water line was fixed.
Secondly, be sure to draft a preliminary class schedule. If teaching Special Education like yours truly, be aware that it will change – several times. I had to consider the other teachers’ schedules and disrupt their day as little as possible. I’d say I’m on my tenth draft by now, but perfection comes with practice.
Thirdly (and in theory) you should get a good night’s sleep to begin each day alert and ready to take on the daunting task of teaching. In reality, sleep may only be a short snooze and alertness can be faked depending on the strength of the coffee. It depends on the individual.
Fourth, know your students’ names. Connect them with faces - their face. Kids are pretty forgiving and politely tell you their real name when you get their names wrong. But there is a limit. I’ve noticed the limit of forgiveness for calling someone by a different name is around four times. After that it is best not to attempt the name of the student. Kick back a while. Either someone will call the nameless student by his/her name, or they will hand in their assignment with their name printed on it. It works pretty well unless they speak and write their name in Yupik (the local Native language).
The fifth and final thing I’d like to address about the beginning of a school year is have some sort of organization for remembering things. I try to write items in my planner or on the small note pad I carry in my pocket. I spend the first few minutes of the day compiling the information into one daily list. Then I rip out the used note pad sheet(s), throw them away, and begin my day.
Just make sure that you have transferred all the information you need before tossing them in the trash. That way you don’t have to think of something else when you get to the “fifth and final thing” in your column.

(Tundra Teacher Tales is available at www.booklocker.com/books/973.html in paper back or immediately in an ebook.)